One of my more interesting jobs was working as a research assistant in the Neuropsychiatric Institute at UCLA while in grad school. Our lab, under the direction of Murray Jarvik and Ron Siegel, looked at the impact of psychoactive substances on learning and memory, which primarily meant giving our poor rhesus monkeys just about every substance under the sun. My impression was that they had no way of understanding what was happening to them, much like people who get an unexpected dose of LSD from school dance punch, and the experience in both cases is typically quite negative.

At the same time, Ron was busy writing a very interesting book on the origin of drug use among humans. After all, it is no easy task to produce something like opium, so how did people learn to do this? While buried deep in the stacks of the UCLA Medical Library reading folklore and other sources, I remember being fascinated with the history of absinthe.

Absinthe, for the uninitiated, is a liquor made of anise (licorice), fennel, and grande wormwood (Artimesia absinthia). Records of the use of wormwood for medicinal purposes go back to early Egyptian papyruses, but the modern version was invented in Switzerland in the 1800s. Absinthe became the rage among Parisien artists and literati of the late 1800s and early 1900s, but concerns about its hallucinogenic and addictive qualities led it to be outlawed in many countries, including the United States, by 1915. Of course, at the outset of WWI, many countries were only just beginning to see how extensive drug use among their population had become, as many draftees were unable to serve due to addiction to then-legal substances. Many American drug laws date from this discovery.

The main component of wormwood, thujone, has been blamed for “absinthism,” a syndrome consisting of hallucination, sleeplessness, and convulsion. Taken in high doses, thujone appears to produce these effects due to its interaction with the inhibitory neurotransmitter, GABA, which of course is also heavily influenced by alcohol [1]. 

The toxic nature of wormwood is heavily debated. In a recent analysis of both historical products and recipes for absinthe, Lachenmeier et al. (2006) found very low levels of thujone, and concluded that “absinthism” could have resulted from the excessive alcoholism of the Parisien artists or some adulteration of their food [2].

We know that a person’s expectations (and the rhesus monkey’s lack thereof) can have an enormous impact on their drug experience, hence the need to have double blind experiments to control for placebo effects. One wonders if the Parisiens didn’t get caught up in some type of mass hysteria, where the ritual of absinthe use (with the pretty spoons used to introduct sugar into the mix) didn’t predispose the users to some rather interesting effects.

At any rate, absinthe has been commercially reintroduced into the United States. “Approved” beverages must have thujone levels that are below a cutoff point, which is actually quite a bit higher than the amounts of thujone found in Lachenmeier et al.’s analysis of the historical products.

Are we likely to be sampling absinthe chez Freberg anytime soon? Absolutely not. I’m afraid that one of the side effects of watching my poor rhesus monkeys suffer is that I am a determined abstainer. Yes, I will have an occasional glass of wine when Mr. F is cooking, and I’m notorious for my coffee consumption (20 cups plus a day during grad school), but that’s it. And at my reduced weight (thanks Jenny Craig), I find that half a glass of wine and gasp! about half of my former coffee consumption is all I can handle.

1.  Bielenberg, J. (2007). [Thujone]. Medizinische Monatsschrift für Pharmazeuten, 30, 322-326. (Article in German–fortunately, I can still read if not speak well). 

2.  Lachenmeier, D.W., Emmert, J., Kuballa, T., & Sartor, G. (2006). Thujone–cause of absinthism? Forensic Science International, 158, 1-8.


5 Comments

jonniereinhold · December 2, 2007 at 2:29 pm

It is very interesting to know the history of the conception of alcohol and drug substances such as Absinthe. I would like to research more into this area about the historical invention and rise of psychoactive drugs. What were their original purposes? Are they popular for the same reasons that drugs are popular today? Were they used for medicinal purposes? The conception of drugs using intensive methods and trials is phenomenal and I am very glad you commented on the rise of popularity of Absinthe in the U.S. in your blog.

jonniereinhold · December 2, 2007 at 5:37 pm

I have located a number of online sellers that do international orders of Absinthe online… I wonder if there is any screening for these shipments to the US since certain types are illegal? One of the biggest sites is http://www.eabsinthe.com/. I think there should be more research on the effects of the alcohol on humans if it is indeed growing in popularity. People should be mindful of the negative effects even though it is illegal to consume.

opendesk · November 25, 2007 at 5:42 pm

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hothorizons » Absinthe….Is the “green fairy” safe or harmful? · November 25, 2007 at 10:25 pm

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Roger’s View of the World, Love and Seafood Gumbo! » If I had only one Cookbook, it would be … · December 12, 2007 at 8:22 pm

[…] There is so much offered in this unique and historical cookbook. Every aspect is covered from how to butcher sea turtles, to the proper table settings to wonderful desserts like ‘Chocolate Eclairs’ (I will post their recipe later as I intend to make it!). Chef Ranhofer’s cellar selections might be a little amusing too, back in the day when Absinthe was in vogue. (My Laura writes about Absinthe in a recent Blog ) […]

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